How to create a 3-watt LED Maglite...
Here's what you'll need:
- 3D Maglite (available at Wal-Mart, Lowes, etc...)
- "D O-Sink" and 52.1mm Ultra-Clear lens (available as a combo here... the 52.1mm Borofloat lens will also work)
- Luxeon-III TV1L emitter (available from PhotonFanatic here)
- Artic Alumina thermal epoxy (available here)
- Red and black insulated wire, 22 gauge or so (available at Radio Shack)
- Soldering iron and solder (available at Radio Shack, Sears, etc...)
- 2.5mm Allen wrench
- Drill with assorted bits
- Vise and/or workbench
- Hacksaw
- Thermal grease (available at Radio Shack)
- Miscellaneous other tools (wire strippers, diagonal cutters, file, etc...)
How to do it...
First, you'll need to disassemble the Maglite. Remove the tailcap and batteries, and throw away the spare bulb under the tailcap spring. Remove the head, and then unscrew the bezel and remove the cheap plastic lens and the reflector (being very careful not to touch the reflector surface). Now, you'll need to remove the switch. Carefully pry the rubber switch cover off using a small screwdriver or knife blade. Now, stick a 2.5mm Allen wrench into the hole in the middle of the switch, and rotate it counterclockwise. This unscrews the lock screw that holds the switch into place. With the screw retracted, you should be able to gently slide the switch assembly out through the tail end of the flashlight.
Now, take the 2.5mm Allen wrench, and unscrew the little round thingy on the side of the switch assembly. Remove the bulb, bulb holder, spring, and the little metal cups on the ends of the spring. Next, remove the metal strip from inside the switch assembly (don't throw it away!), and press out the switch guts (it should be pretty self-explanatory once you see it). The switch assembly housing should be void of all metal parts now.
Using your hacksaw, cut the plastic switch assembly housing down (see the following picture). While you're at it, cut the camming part of the reflector down as far as you can without damaging the reflector surface. I find it easiest to cut it most of the way down with a hacksaw, and then use a file to get it exact. Wash the plastic shavings off the reflector using tap water, but do not touch or wipe the reflective surface with anything! When it's dry, reassemble the Maglite head with the modified reflector and the new Ultra-Clear lens.
Drill out the holes in the O-Sink, so that your wires will slide through. Then, mix up a small amount of the Artic Alumina, and dab it on the backside of the Luxeon emitter. Stick the emitter onto the O-Sink, trying to get it as centered as possible. The O-Sink has a little depression that's shaped like the metal slug on the bottom of the emitter, to help you align and center the emitter.
Press the switch guts back into the cut-down switch assembly housing, and re-insert that metal strip. The metal strip is negative, and the little metal contact on top of the switch guts is positive. Solder 3-4 inches of the appropriate colored wire onto each contact. It helps to cut or bend down the metal strip first, you only need enough to get a good connection. After the solder has cooled, slide the switch assembly back into the Maglite body. Align it with the switch hole, and screw it back into position with the 2.5mm Allen wrench. Put the rubber switch cover back in place.
The wires should now be coming from the switch assembly, and out the front end of the Maglite body. Strip 1/4" or so on the end of each wire, and slide them through the holes in the O-Sink. Tin the ends of the wires with solder, bend them over, and solder them to the leads on the Luxeon emitter. IMPORTANT: The leads on the emitter have small tabs next to them. The tab with the hole in it indicates the positive lead, the tab with the notch indicates the negative lead. Do not get them mixed up!
Now that everything's all wired up, dab a little thermal grease on the O-Sink, and slide it into the Maglite body. Drop in the batteries, screw on the tailcap, and see if it works. If so, screw the head back on and adjust to the point of optimal focus. If it doesn't work, pull the O-Sink back out of the body and check for bad connections, and make sure that correct polarity is observed.
Now, you've successfully built one of the brightest LED flashlights out there. Enjoy it! Explore tunnels with it! Blind your friends!